Welcome to the wonderful Amalfi Coast, a breathtaking corner of paradise in southern Italy with spectacular views and irresistibly beautiful landscapes. Along this fascinating stretch of Mediterranean coastline, you'll discover charming towns, picturesque bays and hidden beaches, all crowned by delicious seafood dishes.
Salerno, the gateway to this beautiful region, warmly welcomes you with golden beaches and a vibrant promenade. Then the road takes you to Amalfi, a charming medieval town, where you can admire the impressive cathedral and the beautiful mountain scenery that surrounds it. Follow Capri, the island paradise that reveals landscapes of wave-filled landscapes and mysterious underwater caves, such as the famous Blue Cave.
Positano will win you over with its narrow streets and colourful houses that wind their way down to the waterfront. Here you'll find stylish boutiques, welcoming restaurants and a charming beach where you can relax and enjoy the sun. On your way north, you'll come across Naples, the vibrant and historic city where you can enjoy the most delicious authentic pizzas and be enveloped in the authentic charm of Italian life.
But the adventure didn't stop there! Don't forget to head to Vezuviothe active volcano that watches over Bay of Naples and visit the fascinating ruins of Pompeiian ancient city that was swallowed by volcanic ash in 79 AD. These exciting destinations will take you back in time and impress you with their rich history and culture.
Amalfi Coast is an unforgettable experience, a perfect combination of spectacular scenery, enchanting beaches and unique culinary delights. So don't miss the chance to explore this piece of heaven and be enchanted by all its wonders!
I invite you to be inspired by our adventure on Amalfi Coast, the place where beauty meets flavour!
Day 1
Naples - the city where Zeus eats Margherita pizza
When you say Italy, you always think of the pizza, paste, limoncello and, of course, "dolce far niente". Since I visited RomeI said that we really had to go back to Italy. So we quickly organized one of our best trips ever. It took 2 weeks, and you could do it only in 5 days. A dream, huh? So we've prepared a 5-day itinerary for you along the Amalfi Coast.
We found plane tickets as soon as possible and landed at Naples. The company we went with was WizzAir, having direct flight Cluj - Naples.
At this point, please make yourself as comfortable as possible and prepare to discover Naples in our adventures from day one.
What is the first thing you do when you arrive in Italy? You eat pizza. That's exactly what we did and went to the famous pizzeria "The old Pizzeria da Michele". The journey from the station to the pizzeria took a maximum of 15 minutes.
Founded in 1870, this is one of the oldest and best pizzerias in Naples. It doesn't take long to make your choice, you will find only 3 types of pizza: Cosacca, Margherita and Marinara. If you're wondering how many pizzas I've had, 3! I stood in line for about 30 minutes. Those who don't want to eat their pizza on the curb in front of the restaurant, as we did, can opt for a table in the small restaurant, waiting outside with numbered tickets issued. The pizzeria is open from 10am to 11pm.
Two hours later we're on the train to Salerno...Wait, what? No, it wasn't the next destination. We were supposed to get to Pompeiibut guess what? I was actually mesmerized by the people around me, the food and the hustle and bustle of the train station to the point that I messed up my train tickets. Salerno was another destination we were going to reach, but by then Pompeii was the next town in our plan. So we took a train ride to Salerno and then we went back to Pompeii at our accommodation B&B Ciro.
It was already late, around 9pm. The walk to the accommodation was rather awkward. The streets were too quiet for that hour, you could barely see the lights on in the houses. You had the feeling that the locals here were still in lockdown mode. The only place that was still open was a small bar with local football supporters with an average age of 60. They were generally very very nice and peaceful. Walking past them, I thought, how can they get along with each other since they all talk at the same time?
But, I think the answer would be "This is Italy, if you can't put it into words, wave your hands."
Day 2
Pompeii
Pompeii is an ancient city. I haven't been able to pass by this city full of history since I came to Naplesso I spent a few days in Pompeii. It was once a very crowded and flourishing city in Roman times. However, in 79 AD, the volcano Vesuvius erupted and covered the entire city with ash. At the time, about 11,000 people were killed. In 1599, this city was discovered by archaeologists. Also, Unesco recognised it as a World Heritage Site. Every year, around 2.5 million tourists visit these ruins.
The weather forecast was rainy for the day but that didn't scare us. Arriving at the scene, I bought tickets and an audio guide (there is also a version without audio guide).
How long does it take to visit the city
Wow! Looks like today is the day we're going to kick our step tracker to the curb. You need a whole day to visit this place. But if you're in a hurry, I'd recommend setting aside about 3-4 hours to see the highlights. It's an ancient city where about 11,000 people lived and you have the opportunity to walk all these streets, so don't try to underestimate the size of this ancient city.
Favourite places in Pompeii
Walking along the stone roads and of course with the help of the audio guide, we actually felt teleported into the ancient landscapes of the city. After the explosion, the city was very well preserved with the help of the ashes. Even the colours of the frescoes remained intact. You can see where the small commercial markets were, the ancient temples, the houses of ordinary people, the frescoes at Villa Dei Misteri, the mosaics, the public baths, the wrestling arena, the amphitheatre. Here you can see various petrified people, children and even puppies.
Who can visit the ruins of Pompeii
This museum city can be visited by anyone, but some parents were braver and came with strollers.
Good luck to the big wheels!
It's hard enough to get around on large cobblestone pathways with a small wheeled cart. I've seen parents carrying their children in their arms because otherwise it was impossible. A tip would be baby carriers or a stroller with big wheels.
Interesting fact
In 1972, the rock band Pink Floyd recorded a live concert in the ruins Roman Amphitheatre FROM Pompeii.
On the bright side, the scheduled rain on the day of the visit only lasted an hour. Then the sun came out and the weather was gorgeous. But as we are used to it, every time we have a little problem. For that day it was that we got sunburnt because we thought it was going to rain and we weren't prepared to have sunscreen with us, just rain gear.
So, below we have prepared some tips for a great visit to this city.
3 Tips For Travelers
- The entrance fee is 22 euro + 8 euro audioguide
- Comfortable footwear, sunscreen/raincoat
- Water container
Day 3
Vesuvius
Volcano Vesuvius is a symbol of the city Napoli. If you want to see the natural landscape of Amalfi CoastI recommend a hike to the top of the mountain. Today this volcano is inactive. To get to the top, you can join the tour or explore on your own.
We chose the coach tour. The price of the ticket was 24.30 euros (bus + entrance to Vesuvius National Park).
The journey from the starting point to the last point reachable by bus/car took approx. 30-40 min, then came the hard part.
On arrival at the site, we were told we had 2 hours to explore the volcano summit. At first it seemed like enough, but when you consider that it takes an hour round trip to the top of the volcano, you only have an hour left to take pictures and admire the scenery from the top.
But on top of all this, Vesuvius is gorgeous. The vegetation is very different, there are few plants, and the rocks and stones on the edge of the trail are very steamy. And at the top of the volcano, what can I say... I was very impressed by the depth of the crater, you could see steam coming out of the side walls. Fascinating and scary at the same time. The view is also breathtaking, you can see the city in the distance Naples, island Capri and part of Amalfi Coast.
After taking a thousand pictures and videos, we realized we still had 10 minutes to get down to the bus. So we ran, nervous not to fall (lucky we had sneakers). We made it on time, but lest we forget we're in Italy and everyone here is very relaxed, so our bus was 15 minutes late. If we had known, we wouldn't have been running like crazy on the volcano trail.
For those who are going to visit this wonder of nature, I recommend you to have at least 1 litre of water, a sandwich or something to eat and, very important, sports shoes or sneakers.
Day 4
Salerno
Amalfi Coast is one of the most loved locations by tourists from all over the world. Here are the most beautiful houses perched on the rocks. We chose to stay here for 8 days to admire the most romantic locations, but that doesn't stop you from "tasting" the charm Amalfi Coast in just a few days.
If you want to explore Amalfi Coast, I recommend starting with the city of Salerno. It's a lively port with a great historic centre and a seaside promenade - Trieste promenade.
We wanted to spend more time at the beach, so we found superb accommodation not even 5 minutes from the beach. If you are planning to visit this town, here's a tip. The public beach where you can sunbathe is 2 km from the old/pedestrian center of town. Here I will leave you the link for accommodation in Salerno.
Although it was September, we were surprised by the high temperatures. For example, at midday, there was no chance of walking on the hot sand without flip-flops. It was perfect weather for a nice tan."Amalfi style". And in the evening... I can't even begin to tell you how nice it is to bathe in the warm sea water. It's just you, the full moon and the city lights on the other side.
The good thing was that the beach was all locals at that time. Lucky for us, the students had started school, so we could relax for hours just listening to the sea waves. It was exactly what we wanted, our oasis of peace and quiet.
Fun Facts
A surprising and funny thing at the same time was, the ice cream parlour next to our accommodation, Neptune Ice Cream Shop. Every night several people would meet for stories in front of the ice cream parlour. All this "party" lasts until morning. My first thought was "Surely they put some secret ingredient in the ice cream! Could it be alcohol?". My curiosity did not leave me indifferent, so early in the morning I went to see what it was all about. Surprisingly, at first impression there was nothing unusual. Everything looked the same as in any other ice cream shop. Since I came all the way here, I asked for ice cream, then in a corner, I saw some sweet buns, so I asked for a bun too. I notice, the nice gentleman who served me, cut the bun in half and fill it with the scoops of ice cream I had chosen. It looks like an ice cream sandwich! From what I understand from a local, this specialty is specific only to this area of Italy. It's very delicious, but I found it a bit high in calories, even though I only had two varieties of ice cream.
Old Centre
Old Centre of the city is full of narrow streets with many terraces hidden in a maze. The most visited street is the pedestrianised Corso Vittorio Emanuell. It is bordered on both sides by many beautiful buildings, many of which were palaces. Walking down the street towards Historic Centre, you will notice that the road changes its name to Via Mercantii.
A few steps from the centre, on a very narrow street, we found a crowded terrace. Osteria dei Sapori is one of the terraces I recommend, with delicious southern Italian food, seafood and fresh fish. Aaaa... and finally with a limoncello, which kind of blurred my way back to my accommodation.
Salerno Cathedral
Salerno also has one of the most beautiful cathedrals in southern Italy. Cathedral has an atrium with 28 columns of Paestum. Inside the cathedral you can see the 18th century plaster peeling off the walls. This reveals several medieval frescoes, of particular beauty being Fresh Virgo. The bell tower of the cathedral dates from the 12th century.
Salerno Medical School
Another pride of the city is School Medical Salernitana, premium University of Medicine in the world, dating back to the Lombard period in the 9th century.
Minerva Garden
If you visit Salerno, make sure you don't miss Giardino della Minerva - Minerva Garden. It is said to be the world's first botanical garden. Since the Middle Ages, it has been used as a simple teaching garden for students Salerno Medical School.
Day 5
Amalfi - Capri - Positano
If you want to feel like you're in an Italian movie with Roberto Benigni and Shophia Loren, you need to go to Amalfi Coast. All the streets are decorated with flowers. The rocky coastline is full of villas straight out of a painting. Some of these are only accessible by boat. The smell of lemons is everywhere. The whole coast is full of small villages, each with its own charm.
We chose Amalfi, Capri and Positano. So I bought tickets Tour 1 - Salerno - Amalfi - Capri - Positano for this tour for a day (it wasn't necessarily enough, but I'll tell you why later). Still, overall it was a good choice.
Amalfi
The first destination was Amalfi. You know that feeling when you get to be in a location you've seen so many times on the internet? Look, that's how I felt when I ended up in Piazza del Duomo. It's small, it's flirty and it's very intimate.
The smell of coffee could be smelled all over the square, and this made the whole square full of people enjoying that "sweet and lazy" in the morning. I liked most the fact that the town centre is just below the coast. It left you feeling like the Dome was under a "stone umbrella".
It was still early in the morning and the city wasn't so crowded with tourists yet, so we went for a walk to the cathedral. It's a Roman Catholic cathedral built in the 9th century. Over the years it has been redecorated with various elements of the Baroque, Gothic and Renaissance periods, including Arabic elements.
Interesting fact
Back when Amalfi era Marine Republic, it was proclaimed that ships sailing from Amalfi Coast they will never be without lemon supplies for their journey. Lemons were essential on their voyages since the sailors' illness was vitamin C deficiency.
Capri
After breakfast in Amalfi, we set off towards Capri. Yes, that very island Capri where celebrities from all over the world spend most of their holidays. This island is the number one target for tourists from all over the world when they arrive on Amalfi Coast. This was felt right from the first steps as soon as we arrived on the island.
It was full of tourists (mostly American and British). A bit too crowded for us. But that didn't stop us from going and visiting Anacapri. So, we got tickets for the funicular and bus to the famous lookout point, Anacapri.
The whole thing took about an hour. But nevertheless, public transport did its job well. Someone give them an award for the bus drivers' driving skills. It was unimaginable how they weaved in and out of cars or how close they were going along the coast, the road being incredibly narrow for 2 directions of travel (truth be told, I was a bit nervous by the time we reached our destination).
Chairlift Mount Solaro
The chairlift experience Mount Solaro was, of course, one of my favorites. It is only one person and the length to admire the whole island Capri from above is 13 min. What more could you want? You can also see the yachts moored near the island in the distance. Here and there you see a helicopter and at that moment you think "Is it JLo or the Kardashians?”
On the way back we walked down the narrow streets to discover the island better. In fact, the reality is different. I was charmed by the ceramic/porcelain kitchenware boutiques. Most of them are handmade. I couldn't help myself, so I got my own. On this occasion, I found a shop that delivers to any corner of the world, Ceramic Shop.
As we told you at the beginning, we're sorry we didn't stay longer. We would have loved to see what nightlife is like on the island Capri. So we're going to go again on Amalfi Coast and this time we'll be spending several days in each town.
Positano
But let's not forget that there is one more city left in our programme. The last item for the day was Positano. And on this occasion I would like to tell you that it is the most popular, but also the most expensive city on the Amalfi Coast.
The first thought I had when I arrived in Positano was "Thank you for inspiring me to the beach in Salerno". At that moment we realised how small the beaches of the other towns on the Amalfi Coast. It still felt very much like a tourist wave even though it was September. The beach was too crowded to stay, so we preferred to go for a walk and dinner instead. But guess what? It was exactly the time when everyone was coming back from the beach and stopping at the terraces. The queues were huge. At the time we were a little shocked because in all the days we spent in Salerno we have not faced this problem. So we had a better alternative, having a drink and watching the sunset over that beautiful little town. Lucky for us, there were no queues at the alcohol.
It's an old fishing town where you can find seafood on every terrace. Most locals make a living from tourism. So, good luck if you end up in Positano and don't queue at the terraces. We ended our day very romantically with a gorgeous sunset. I can't wait to come back here for a few days so I can tell you much more about these wonderful little towns clinging to the cliffs.